Spring Break
Fashion weeks in Berlin, Stockholm showcase eclectic pieces
Dora Wilkenfeld
Issue date: 2/10/09 Section: Focus
With world economies in turmoil, Wall Street and Park Avenue on edge and independent fashion labels foundering, 2009 seems like the beginning of the end for high concept clothing and design. Here in the States, "recessionistas" are girding their loins, mending and making do with only one Stephen Sprouse for Louis Vuitton carryall, where only a few short months ago, they might have thrown caution and dollars to the wind and collected them all.
In the frozen North, though, great design springs eternal. Something about those fjords and funny vowels must do the trick, because at the recent Stockholm Fashion Week, which wrapped up on Jan. 28, the ideas were flowing unhindered by the price of rubberized fabrics and per diem model fees.
Acne, the denimwear brainchild of Jonny Johansson (and fashion label with the least likely moniker), branched out into a retro futuristic, Sixties-inspired take on high style dystopia. The clear vinyl pants and evil platform boots that resembled demonic hooves all come together in a look that advises passersby to watch out, space motorcycle gang coming through!
House of Dagmar, a small label designed by Kristina Tjäder, continued the trend for sheer pants, something perhaps only a 6-foot, statuesque Swedish blond model could really carry off. This, however, is what makes it Fashion with a capital "Fash." Paired with flat, tough boots and a lot of gray knits, and all topped off with cowl like headwraps, the sheerness of the trousers lends a slight fragility to what otherwise would be unremittingly hard-boiled sportswear.
Adding to the dark vibe seen in Stockholm, some labels, like the misleadingly named Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair, went for a no holds barred Gothic princess look, mixing black ruffles with tall lace up shoes and pale faces. The Local Firm, building on a Halston esque look - brown and gray knit layers, little 1970s square hats - put together a city slick collection with nonetheless an element of hard times. Sure, Halston was the go-to designer for Liza Minnelli and the rest of the Studio 54 crew, but that era was also infamous for the crumbling infrastructure of New York and the widespread fears of economic catastrophe. Too heavy a thought? Maybe, but there's no denying its perfect timeliness.
In the frozen North, though, great design springs eternal. Something about those fjords and funny vowels must do the trick, because at the recent Stockholm Fashion Week, which wrapped up on Jan. 28, the ideas were flowing unhindered by the price of rubberized fabrics and per diem model fees.
Acne, the denimwear brainchild of Jonny Johansson (and fashion label with the least likely moniker), branched out into a retro futuristic, Sixties-inspired take on high style dystopia. The clear vinyl pants and evil platform boots that resembled demonic hooves all come together in a look that advises passersby to watch out, space motorcycle gang coming through!
House of Dagmar, a small label designed by Kristina Tjäder, continued the trend for sheer pants, something perhaps only a 6-foot, statuesque Swedish blond model could really carry off. This, however, is what makes it Fashion with a capital "Fash." Paired with flat, tough boots and a lot of gray knits, and all topped off with cowl like headwraps, the sheerness of the trousers lends a slight fragility to what otherwise would be unremittingly hard-boiled sportswear.
Adding to the dark vibe seen in Stockholm, some labels, like the misleadingly named Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair, went for a no holds barred Gothic princess look, mixing black ruffles with tall lace up shoes and pale faces. The Local Firm, building on a Halston esque look - brown and gray knit layers, little 1970s square hats - put together a city slick collection with nonetheless an element of hard times. Sure, Halston was the go-to designer for Liza Minnelli and the rest of the Studio 54 crew, but that era was also infamous for the crumbling infrastructure of New York and the widespread fears of economic catastrophe. Too heavy a thought? Maybe, but there's no denying its perfect timeliness.
Viewing Comments 1 - 2 of 2
Louis vuitton
posted 2/12/09 @ 1:16 AM EST
no matter what happened , fashion will keep walking~~
replica designer handbags
posted 6/09/09 @ 12:17 PM EST
fashion is involving in many concepts.
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